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A bit about our Persian / Himalayan Kittens
A bit about our Persian / Himalayan Kittens
A brief overview…
Persian cats are, perhaps, one of the world's oldest and most recognizable cat breeds. Known for their flat faces, big eyes, and long, lavish coats, Persians can come in a wide range of colours and colour patterns. The colour points (pattern), began after crossing Persians and Siamese cats together. Once the colourpoint gene was established the resulting offspring were bred back to Persian cats and the breed was later named Himalayan.
After years of selective breeding nowadays, being that Himalayans are so genetically similar to the Persians and because it’s looks, personality and body type are so similar, the Himalayan cat is still considered a sub-breed of Persian Cats by many cat fanciers and by some cat associations who now refer to the Himalayan Persian cross as simply a C.P.C. Persian, (C.P.C. representing that the Persian may be a colourpoint carrier). Some clubs still consider a Persian x Himalayan, even though they may not express colourpoints, to be distinctly a Himalayan breed all their own in others cat clubs and associations.
Some people find this confusing but unless you and have some knowledge regarding genetics and are purchasing a cat with the intentions of breeding, then the minor differences between the two breeds mostly come down to colour pattern.
Over the years a few breeders began focusing more on achieving a certain extreme look and intentionally choose to breed for extremely flat faces. Sometimes, neglecting the long term health effects of this deformity, a few breeders for vanity reasons, failed to recognize the harm and discomfort that it may cause the cat. Many breeders continue to breed for extreme flat faces and some fail to acknowledge the level of commitment needed by a pet owner regarding the number of hours and years that will be required to maintain a cat with such extreme features. More recently a lot of conscientiousness breeders have begun to accept that cuteness can still be achieved with out making too many radical sacrifices and now they are deliberately choosing to breed Persians/Himalayans with much longer faces. These longer faced Persians/Himalayan are often marketed by being referred to as ‘doll face’ which is mostly used to indicate that their faces are not extremely flat however, as with most things some people sacrifice one thing for another, in this case breeders sometimes go too far the other way and now many ‘doll face’ Persian/Himalayan cats look a lot like domestic longhair cats. When breeding, we prefer to maintain the Persian/Himalayan overall cobby, roundish body type and prefer working with cats that have a softer looking face, one that is not too extreme but is still a bit flat and rounder than a cat with too long of a ‘doll face’.
We don’t believe in raising cats in cages. Other than for medical reasons or when the need to temporarily confine them for a medical reason, transportation or at cat shows, the only caged cats I'd ever seen were at shelters, or kitten mills. Our cats are raised free in our home, as part of our family. They are exposed to other pets, family members and to our friends where they receive a lot of care and socialization. Shortly after our kittens start exploring and eating on their own, they are confined to one area in our home and while mom has free access to them and the rest of our home, the kittens remain confined while we are not playing with them, for a week or two, until they are used to using a litter box.
Our cats and kittens are fed dry, premium cat / kitten food which along with fresh clean water (no milk) are always available They are also fed treats sparingly and they are offered home cooked meat every evening. They don’t really need the treats or the home cooked meat, but we do like to spoil our pets. We have a multi-level home so, we quickly learned that treats kept in a plastic ‘Temptations’ can, is your best friend and training tool when checking up on everyone or rounding them up at grooming time. (any small plastic container that can be reused consistently, containing their favorite treats, that you can shake to make noise will work)
Depending on where a person lives, some vaccines are required by law. This is not an issue for us because we believe in preventative medicine and although we do not over vaccinate, we make sure that our veterinarian administers vaccinations to all our cats and kittens. Not all veterinarians have the same vaccination protocol. Sometimes, when to prescribe which vaccinations to administer or what age to give them vaccines, may vary somewhat. We have found that other than a few naturopath veterinarians or those that prefer to adhere to strictly a Holistic approach, most veterinarians recommend a similar vaccination protocol.
All our kittens can only go to a new home
• After they have been properly weaned. Which is usually when they are 10 plus weeks old.
• After we are sure they are faithfully using their litter box.
• After they have been examined by our veterinarian and received their initial vaccines.
• After they have had several preventative dewormings.
• After they have been treated with Revolution or Advantage Multi (topical flea / mite prevention).
All our Kittens leave our home with
• Their signed vaccination certificates.
• A 1-year written Health Guarantee (Which is posted on our site for everyone to read.)
• A bag of food they are currently used to eating.
The Prices of our kittens do vary
• According to availability…cats usually raise kittens during the spring and summer and therefore there are more to choose from and prices may be a bit lower. During the winter months through until late spring, you’ll notice that kitten prices are substantially higher. Often because our summers are so short, people choose to wait to bring a new pet home until they are home more. Unfortunately, during the winter, the demand is higher but there's not very many kittens available during these months.
• Breed confirmation and quality…Often, the closer the kitten is to meeting the show standard the more in demand it is and therefore it may cost more.
• Colour… People often decide to purchase a pet because of colour. While this may not the best reason to decide on any pet, people have a preference. Therefore, colours that are unique usually sell quicker. Some colours tend to sell slower . Although they are all equally deserving of finding great homes, sometimes certain colours sell a bit slower.
Over the years the cost of vet care, grooming, food, toys, advertising, etc. have all gone way up in price every year. However, the price of quality animals purchased from a reputable breeder has remained relatively consistent.
We are never in rush to sell one of our pets and our prices are reasonable and are not negotiable…Our thoughts regarding negotiating the price of any living thing is very simple …If you can not afford the pet now then perhaps you may want to consider waiting until your circumstances change. (usually, followup vet care is not negotiable either) If you don’t think the pet is worth the price, then why would we or anyone ever consider selling it to you.
Are you prepared
Now that you’ve decided that you will or already have chosen the kitten of your dreams, it’s time to have things ready for the new arrival!
When coming to visit one of our kittens always be sure to have a well-ventilated pet safe carrier, lined with a small cat cushion or towel with you. It is better to be prepared!
Suggested Shopping list
• Our kittens go home with food so you can wait on this until after you get your new kitten.
• Shallow food and water bowls
• Litter tray and litter scoop
• A bag of cat litter
• Sturdy scratching post
• Kitten grooming comb and brush
• Kitten toys
• Contact details for a local vet. (If you know when you will be bringing your kitten home, then NOW is a good time for you to arrange a visit to your local vet, to get your kitten checked and to plan vaccinations and to discuss spaying or neutering.)
Home at last
If you have other pets, make sure the vet gives your kitten a full health check before you introduce them to each other.
When you bring your new kitten home for the first time, it will probably be nervous for a few days. Don’t worry, it is just that everything is new (the sounds, smells, the temperature, the layout, the furnishings and the people) so it fair to assume that he or she will be apprehensive for a few days. – it’s perfectly normal! You can help it feel a bit more settled and secure by leaving its cat carrier with the door removed, for it to cozy in for the first week or two.
Just to give it time to get used to knowing where its litter box is, it is advisable to keep your kitten in one kitten proofed, warm, quiet room whenever you are not with it. try not to move the litter pan during the first few weeks. Besides the litter pan with litter make sure it that it has 24-hour access to its full food, water bowls, a cozy bed (or cat carrier turned into a bed) and a few toys to keep it entertained. As mentioned earlier in this post, our kittens are trained to using a litter box when they are very young. While transitioning to a new home, sometimes there are accidents but keeping it confined to one room usually helps with this and will help your kitten adjust to its new home.
While most breeds are fairly established, there is much that we breeders are still learning about each breed. Some breeds are higher maintenance and others have genetic strengths and weaknesses that needs to be considered before committing to and accepting the responsibility of caring for one. It is ultimately up to the purchaser to make a wise choice. Start by doing a lot of research, talk to professional groomers, veterinarians and people who specialize in the breeds, before deciding on which pet is best for you.
Don't just read the information posted on the internet.